How is cheese made? Uncovering the Art of Cheesemaking

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The art of cheesemaking has been around for centuries and is still practiced today by commercial and recreational cheese artisans all over the world.

Put simply, cheesemaking involves the transformation of milk into cheese. It is both an art and a science and incorporates skill, patience, creativity, tradition, and knowledge. Cheesemaking has evolved over centuries and continues to evolve.

The History of Cheesemaking

Cheesemaking is believed to have originated in the Middle East and spread to Europe during the Roman Empire. Throughout the centuries, cheesemaking has evolved and adapted to different cultures and environments.

Cheesemaking was well-established in Europe by the Middle Ages. Innovations in cheesemaking techniques were made during the Renaissance, allowing for new flavors and varieties of cheese.

By the 19th century, cheese making had become an industrial process and was common in many parts of the world.

Today, cheesemaking is an art form practiced by cheese artisans around the world.

Overview of the Cheesemaking Process

At its most basic level, the cheesemaking process can be divided into three main steps: coagulation, pressing, and ripening.

Each step involves different techniques and ingredients to produce the desired result. The desired result may be a type of cheese (e.g. fresh cheese, aged cheese, swiss cheese, blue cheese, soft cheese) or a variation within a type of cheese (e.g. brie, camembert, queso fresco, cheddar cheese).

The cheese that results can have a range of flavors, textures, and aromas depending on the ingredients and processes that are used. Environmental factors such as temperature and humidity also affect the distinct flavor and other characteristics of the final cheese.

Coagulation

The first step in cheesemaking is coagulation. This is the process of separating the proteins in the milk and forming curds. This is done by adding an acid or a coagulant such as rennet to the milk, which causes the proteins to separate. The lactose sugar is converted to lactic acid.

Pressing

The next step is pressing. The curds are pressed into molds to form the desired shape and texture. The pressing process can vary depending on the type of cheese being made.

Ripening

The third step is ripening. This is the process of aging the cheese to develop its flavor and texture. Different cheeses require different aging times and techniques.

Steps to Making Cheese at Home

Making cheese at home is a fun and rewarding experience. It is also a great way to learn the cheese making process.

The steps to making cheese depend on the cheese you are making. Here are the general steps to follow when making cheese at home.

Choose what cheese to make

Sometimes the first step is the hardest – deciding what cheese to make! There are so many options. You may like to make your favorite cheese or experiment with a new variety. If you’re a beginner, fresh cheeses like feta, halloumi, cottage cheese, cream cheese, and quark are good ones to start with.

Find a recipe

There are many cheesemaking recipes available online or in cheesemaking books. Have a hunt and choose the one you like.

Organize your equipment

You will generally need the following equipment to make cheese:

  • A large pot (big enough to hold the volume of milk you are using)

  • A cheesemaking knife – one with a long blade

  • Thermometer – either one that clips onto the side of the pot or an appropriate electronic thermometer

  • Measuring spoons for measuring the cultures, rennet, and calcium chloride (if using)

  • Large draining spoon

  • Cheesecloth 

  • Colander

  • Cheese molds

  • Cheese press (you can improvise here – heavy books, wood, weights..)

There are many online retailers that supply these items although many can be sourced locally from variety stores and supermarkets.

Source the ingredients

Once you have your recipe, collect all the ingredients you need. This is likely to include the appropriate volume of milk, culture, calcium chloride, rennet/acid, cheese salt, and any additional flavoring ingredients

Make sure you have everything you need before you get started – there’s nothing worse than heating the milk, adding the culture, and then realizing you’re out of rennet.

Buy the best quality ingredients you can find and/or afford. The better quality the milk, the better the quality of the cheese.

Sanitize your equipment

This is the most important part of the whole process. If your equipment isn’t sanitized, it can grow all sorts of nasty things that don’t go well with cheese. Don’t skip this step. 

There are different ways to sanitize your equipment which include using heat, vinegar, or iodophor. Don’t forget to wash your equipment in hot soapy water before sanitizing.

Prepare the Milk

There are several things to consider when choosing and preparing the milk. 

Choose your animal milk

The first thing to decide is what animal’s milk you will use. This comes down to the type of milk that is appropriate for the cheese you are making, as well as personal preference.

Milk options include cow’s milk, goat’s milk, sheep’s milk, and buffalo milk, as well as some more obscure milk types like horse, llama, camel, yak, and alpaca milk. You can even try chocolate milk if you’re feeling adventurous! In most parts of the world, cow’s milk cheeses dominate but don’t let this stop you from giving other types of milk a go.

Raw vs Pasteurized Milk

The next thing to decide is whether you will use unpasteurized (raw) or pasteurized milk. Raw milk comes straight from the animal; unlike pasteurized milk, raw milk is not heated (and then cooled) to remove potentially harmful bacteria.

Due to safety concerns, raw milk is generally not as widely available as pasteurized milk although that does depend on where you live. Many countries have laws around the sale of raw milk. That said, if you have access to raw milk and you are happy to use it, raw milk cheeses can be delicious.

Homogenized vs Unhomogenised Milk

Homogenized milk is milk that has undergone a process to break up the fat particles so that it has a smooth consistent texture. Most milk sold commercially has been homogenized as homogenized milk lasts longer and allows milk from different cows to be mixed together. 

However, if you live on a farm or have been lucky enough to have access to unhomogenized milk, you will know the delight of opening a bottle of milk and finding a layer of cream on the top due to fat particles rising to the surface. 

With regards to cheesemaking, both homogenized and unhomogenized milk can be used. However, due to the fact that unhomogenized milk has not had to go through a process that damages its fat molecules, unhomogenized milk will provide a better curd. But if you only have access to homogenized milk, don’t worry, adding calcium chloride will help to strengthen the curd.

Heat milk to 90°F (32°C)

On a stovetop, slowly heat the milk to around 90°F (32°C) – this is the temperature required for started bacteria to grow. Stir the milk during this time to ensure even heating. 

Add the culture

There are two categories of cultures: starter culture (‘starter bacteria’) and non-starter culture. Starter cultures help to make the milk more acidic and start to ripen it – they begin the process of transforming the milk into cheese. Common starter cultures are mesophilic culture (used for cheddar cheese, gouda, and other cheeses) and thermophilic culture (used for mozzarella and parmesan, amongst others).

Non-starter cultures are used more to influence the final taste of the cheese and the way it matures during the aging process.

Coagulate the milk

Coagulation is simply forming the curd. This is done by either adding an acid or an enzyme called rennet.

Calcium chloride is sometimes added before the acid or rennet to enhance curd formation, particularly when homogenized milk is used.

Following the addition of the acid/rennet, the milk is left for 30-60 minutes to allow the curd to form. Once there is a clean break the curd is ready to cut.

What’s a clean break?

To determine whether you have a clean break, insert the cheese knife into the curd and make a small approx. 3cm cut. Then place the knife under the cut, flat side up, and lift the knife to separate the two sides of the cut. For a clean break, the curd should spit cleaning along the two sides of the cut. The whey should be transparent and yellow (not milky).

If you don’t have a clean break, leave the curds to coagulate for longer, testing again every 10 minutes until a clean break is obtained. Don’t worry if it is taking longer than expected, different kinds of milk and conditions can influence the time it takes the curd to set. 

Cutting the curd

Once the curd is set, a cheese knife (a knife with a long blunt blade) is used to cut the curd into smaller pieces. The size of these pieces will depend on the type of cheese being made.

In general, a harder cheese will require the curds to be cut into smaller pieces as this release more whey leading to a cheese with less moisture. Softer cheeses will have a larger cut curd size to retain more moisture in the final product.

Processing the curd

Depending on the cheese being made, the curds may then be heated, stirred, or cheddared for varying amounts of time to assist in extracting more whey from the curds. In general, fresh cheeses and soft cheeses will require less effort at this step than harder cheeses.

Separating the curds from the whey

Next, the whey is drained from the curds and the curds are transferred into molds which shape the cheese and allow additional whey to be expelled.

Rather than pouring the whey down the sink, use it to make whey ricotta or add it to smoothies. It’s also great for the garden.

Pressing the cheese

Some cheeses are then pressed for varying amounts of time at weights. Generally, the harder the cheese being made, the longer and heavier the pressing.

Fresh and soft cheeses often do not require pressing.

Salting the cheese

Many kinds of cheese are then salted by sprinkling salt on the curd. The cheese may also be placed in a brine solution. 

Aging the cheese

Cheese needing to be aged will then be stored in appropriate conditions (temperature and humidity) for anywhere from weeks to years prior to eating. They may be aged in wax, vacuum packed, or left as they are, in which case they will develop a natural rind.

Aging is an important part of the cheesemaking process. Aging is the process of allowing it to mature and develop flavor and texture. Different cheeses require different aging times and techniques.

The cheesemaker must take into account the environment in which the cheese is aged. Different temperatures, humidity levels, and other environmental factors can have a significant impact on the flavor and texture.

Tips and Tricks for Making Cheese at Home

As with anything, the more cheese you make, the better you’ll get. As the saying goes, practice makes perfect and you’ll develop your own systems, methodologies, tips, and tricks as you progress.

Here are some recommendations to get you started:

  • Source quality ingredients. High-quality milk, bacteria, and other ingredients are essential for making a quality

    product
  • Prepare the milk. The milk should be heated and cooled to the desired temperature.

  • Use the right bacteria. Different types of bacteria are used to create different types of cheese.

  • Invest in a thermometer and monitor the temperature as per the recipe.

  • Monitor the humidity. The humidity should be monitored during the aging process to ensure the best results.

  • Taste the cheese. Taste the cheese during the aging process to check for flavor and texture.

  • Adjust the aging process. The aging process should be adjusted based on the flavor and texture of the cheese.

  • And, most importantly, enjoy your cheesemaking journey and have fun!

Cheesemaking Resources

If you’re interested in learning more about cheesemaking, there are a number of classes and resources available. Professional cheesemaking classes are available in many cities, and there are a number of books and online resources available.

Cheesemaking classes provide an opportunity to learn the craft of cheesemaking from experienced cheesemakers. Such classes include instruction on the science and art of cheesemaking, as well as hands-on experience.

There are also a number of excellent books and online resources available to learn more about cheesemaking. Books generally provide an in-depth look at the craft of cheesemaking, while online resources can provide quick and easy access to information.

Conclusion: So, how is cheese made?

As we’ve discussed, cheesemaking is an art, a science, and, for some, a religion. It is an ever-evolving process in which there is much again from both the journey and the outcome.

With practice, patience, and enthusiasm, making cheese at home can be a fun and rewarding experience. And after all that effort, there is nothing better than cutting into a finished cheese you made yourself from scratch.

Happy cheesemaking!

cheese, wheels, wheels of cheese